The walk described here starts and finishes at Lynton, the higher of the two twin towns. It skirts thedramatic landscape of the Valley of Rocks, to the west of the town, giving superb views over the Valley and the sea beyond, returning to Lynton along the South West Coast Path.
Walk Length: 5 miles/8 km:
Lynton and the Valley of the Rocks
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The spectacular landscape of the Lynton area, where Exmoor meets the sea, lends itself to superb walking. Lynton itself is on the South West Coast Path, but also, together with its twin town of Lynmouth, forms the northern terminus of the Two Moors Way. This outstanding walking route spans Devon south to north, crossing both Dartmoor and Exmoor and also the lesser-known areas between. With a link from the Two Moors Way to the South Devon coast at Wembury, a Devon Coast to Coastwalk has been created with Lynton or Lynmouth the northern starting or finishing point.
no stiles; one long steady climb of 90m/300 ft
a shorter steady climb of 50/m/165ft
also a short, sharp climb of 35m/115 ft.
The Walk
Start outside the Fernleigh Guest House, Park Street, Lynton in the town which was little more than a hamlet until late Victorian times. In the early 19th century it began to grow in popularity as a result of its dramatic location, but access remained very difficult until a narrow-gauge railway reached Lynton from Barnstaple in the 1890s. It then grew rapidly, and the architecture now reflects this period of growth during the late Victorian and Edwardian periods.
Turn left out of Fernleigh down Park Street and at the junction at the top of Park Street turn right. This road soon turns sharp back and left – at this bend take the footpath directly ahead,passing a row of cottages on your left. After a short while the path forkswith a gate infront,take the rightfork,and after a short walk turn left signed to Lee Abbey and Bay. The path climbs gently through woodland. The woodland forms part of an important wildlife area, the West Exmoor Coast and Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest, supporting valuable areas of ancient oak woodland, coastal lichen flora and a rich bird population.
As the path climbs, the woods thin out. Superb views open up ahead to the sea and to the right over the high land of Hollerday Hill and back to Lynton. As the path bears round to the left the views become ever more spectacular. Far below is the Valley of Rocks, flanked to the seaward by the craggy landmarks of Castle Rock and Rugged Jack. Ahead is Woody Bay and, on the nearer headland, the landmark of Duty Point Tower. This is a mid 19th century folly – whether there ever was actually a “duty” associated with the location is unknown, although it does occupy a commanding position.
Having crossed the high point of what is variously called South Cleave or South Cliffe, the southern tip of the Valley of Rocks, the path begins to descend. Soon, the imposing sight of Lee Abbey comes into view. Behind is the little inlet of Lee Bay with the larger Woody Bay beyond. The path follows a wide Z
downhill. Go through a gate to arrive at a fork in the path at the edge of woodland. Fork right,
signposted to Lee Abbey. We are back in the West Exmoor woodlands here. Dominated by sessile oak, the woodlands also include birch, rowan, holly and hazel and the moist, clean air has also encouraged ferns and lichens. In addition, the variety of habitats in the woodlands has given rise to a diverse breeding bird population.
Follow the path as it descends to the junction of paths by a seat. For a short cut, take the path back to the right, otherwise continue ahead, signposted to Lee Bay. Keep to the main track through the woods to cross a footbridge over a stream by a picturesque pond, the stream having been dammed here. On the far side of the footbridge follow the path round to the right and continue to arrive at a junction of paths by a footbridge, again on the right. Turn sharp back right here, before the footbridge, and follow this narrower path [signposted to Lee Bay] as it descends alongside the stream. This is a very attractive
location, and the stream makes an appealing feature tumbling over rocks and boulders as it descends rapidly. Keep a look out for dippers on the rocks in the stream bottom. Pass an old cottage, keeping it well to the left, and soon the path reaches and crosses another stream –actually the same as was crossed earlier, higher in the woods. Follow the path as it bears to the left and then arrives at a road. The walk has now reached the South West Coast Path, which on this length follows this minor road. If you fancy a dip, or a sit on the beach, the path to Lee Bay is down the track opposite.
For the return leg turn right, up the road, past the 20 mph sign. Follow the road as it climbs steadily to Lee Abbey. [The short cut mentioned earlier comes down the track opposite the Abbey]. The site of Lee Abbey was originally owned by the Cistercian monks of Forde Abbey in Dorset, but has never itself been
an abbey. The site was passed to the family of a Barnstaple merchant in the 1550s, and they built a farmhouse here. By the middle of the 19th century it had passed to a Charles Frederick Bailey, who built what he called Lee Abbey, incorporating the earlier farmhouse. Later, the building was acquired by a Christian fellowship, and from 1966 onwards the building was adapted and extended as a conference and residential centre.
The Coast Path continues along the road into the Valley of Rocks, although soon after the lodge there is a short cut to the left avoiding a short stretch of the road. The Valley of Rocks, seen earlier from the highflanking cliffs, is now experienced at close hand. It represents the residue of the bed of the West Lyn River, which used to flow this way to the sea until the cliffs at Lynmouth were beached and its course shortened. You will almost certainly see some of the goats for which the Valley is well-known. In fact, the Domesday Book entry for Lynton in 1086 records 75 goats. After these herds were lost, they were later reintroduced to help graze the rough pasture of the Valley. The present herd dates from the second half of the 20th century when three feral goats were introduced from the Cheviots in Northumberland. They now number over 100.
Just after the little roundabout in the road, bear left, to pass between the two rocky outcrops of CastleRock and Rugged Jack, and follow the signposted Coast Path. Although well surfaced all the way, this path is superbly sited on the cliff, some 130m/430 feet above the sea. It gives breathtaking views over
the Bristol Channel to the Welsh coast. Eventually the path becomes a lane and enters Lynton as North Walk. It passes substantial Victorian hotels and then crosses the line of the cliff railway between Lynton and Lynmouth.
The cliff railway dates from 1890, when it was originally built to carry freight brought by sea to Lynmouth Harbour up to Lynton, although it soon became a tourist attraction. It was financed by the publisher Sir George Newnes who had a local property. It is powered by the weight of water, 700 gallons of river
water fill the tanks underneath the car at Lynton Station at the top of the railway. The weight of the water takes this top car downhill and draws the lower car uphill on the continuous cable. When the water-filled car reaches Lynmouth at the bottom, the tank is emptied and the tank of the other car, now at the top, filled.
At the fork just after the cliff railway the Coast Path bears left to descend to Lynmouth. To return to Lynton on our walk bear right, up the hill. At the top, the path goes past Lynton Church. Now turn right and just a short stroll down Lee Road then after the Post Office turning left down Park Street to the Fernleigh Guest House.
Now relax and get ready for the evening!!
It is advisable to let someone know, have an Ordinance Survey map and dress appropriately when you go walking.